On reaching the Luang Namtha valley, you know you are somewhere special. And so thought the Tai Daeng when they migrated here 50 odd years ago, escaping the perils of war in Houaphan, north-western Laos, the Ho Chi Minh Trail border with Vietnam.
This story is about Kong, Khamkong Vilaisouk, a 35 years young Tai Daeng woman and her handicraft centre, laid out between a Tai Daeng and Tai Dam village in the lush rice fields on the outskirts of Luang Namtha town. The Tai Daeng and Tai Dam live side by side in the Luang Namtha valley and even though they proclaim they are from one or the other ethnic group, some scholars suggest they are one of the same group and were misnamed by westerners early on. Visiting Kong, we easily move between these two villages with relatives on either side. The Luang Namtha area has such cultural diversity, and the ease of relations between all is a lesson in harmony the entire world could benefit from right now.
I first met Kong in 2016 working on the "Luang Namtha Valley Route", a New Zealand government sponsored project to set up a tourist route around the valley. The project sponsored small businesses along the route with a 90% investment, locals contributing 10% and supported them with all the marketing communications required. At that time Kong and her husband Thongmai Vahnnavong, had the weaving center which consisted of a small room they lived in with a kitchen, a store and bathrooms, an outdoor dining area, a dyeing area and work room for the looms. All situated in a large garden, with easy access for tourist vans to stop. One of the early keys to Kong's success was her connection with the adventure travel companies. They would, and still do, start the trekking trips by visiting the Ban Phiengngam Weaving Centre as it was near the starting point of the track. Guides would explain the dyes, silk & cotton weaving processes based on whatever work was happening. Kong's mother, grandmother and other women would weave at the centre.
The store had their textiles, and many from home weavers in nearyby villages. At that time there were textiles, skirt fabrics (sinhs), scarves, shawls and various sizes of runners in intricate patterns. There were also some simple shoulder bags sewn locally, ones you see many school children carry in rural communities.
A decade ago, and until the pandemic hit, Luang Namtha attracted many Europeans of various ages for trekking and kayaking adventures in the Nam Ha National Biodiversity Conservation Area. Known for the various ethnic groups - Khmu, Hmong, Akha, Lanten - who provided a tapestry of traditional lifestyle in villages surrounding this protected area and river system. For Kong and her family sales were adequate, with the addition of catering lunches and occasional workshops.
In 2019 Kong joined a sewing training program Ma Te Sai organised with LuxDev sponsorship. The program consisted of two two-week training sessions over 6 months period. A sewing machine and overlocker was donated to the centre. The final training was in January 2020 right before the pandemic hit. Tourism halted.
But Kong did not halt. She invested her time into sewing bags and purses, making Tai Dam shirts that appealed to the Lao market, and established customers in Vientiane, the capital 350km away. She was connected to the Lao Handicraft Association and would attend the handicraft fair in Vientiane every year with a small Luang Namtha producer group. This kept her going during the pandemic, and with the rapid train connecting Northern Laos to the capital as well as an increase of courier companies, sales continued and weavers kept weaving.
A main contributing factor for weaving traditions to remain lively in Laos is women still wear the traditional skirt (sinh) to work and ceremonies. And tailoring is lucrative for weaving communities as they can then sell finished products showcasing their traditional textiles. Trims on jackets, shawls (phabieng), skirts and even purses and handbags.
Post-pandemic, in 2023, I had a group of crafty Australians touring with me and we stayed in the new bungalows at the weaving centre. In the morning Kong would return from the local market with breakfast treats, whilst Thongmai, quite the coffee afficionado would make us delicious barista coffee with Lao coffee beans he sourced from the Bolaven Plateau. After a day of crafting and exploring we would sit in the sala watching the sun set over the rice fields, the occasional buffalo meandering by. One evening during this stay we returned to a group of VIP-looking vans and cars in the centre. Emerging from the shop with bags and dignitaries in tow was the Prime Minister of Lao's wife.
Then September 2025 the Ma Te Sai team visited Kong, to stay and interview her and four other women from our sewing training cohort. We wanted to understand what their lives were like now, were they still sewing and supporting communities. Kong had just finished another extension at the center, a small museum to showcase her collection of traditional Tai textiles.
I suppose this is the point where we can actually talk about what makes these textiles woven in Luang Namtha today so special, although I could wax on about the wonders staying in the Luang Namtha valley further.
The intricate designs and unique colour variations are striking in the current day weaving. In Kong's shop I always find pieces that take me out of my comfort zone in colour combinations, and for which I grow even fonder over time. Purists may not be so happy as not all textiles will be cotton or silk, with many synthetic threads used. Kong's weavers do still create their own colours and particularly use a fresh or unfermented indigo that produces an emerald green and variations. It is these differences in colour and particularly differences in patterns that provide an interesting contrast to the TaiLeu textiles we are more familiar with from Northern Luang Prabang. Over time we have seen many traditional patterns and complex designs being relegated to old cloths in weavers’ cupboards, reference points but too time consuming to make now.
Kong and many of our producers from this area, tolerate our capturing of their patterns to incorporate into modern designs. Striking a balance to sell to our international market. However I am always happy to showcase the intricate Tai Daeng designs, which are well appreciated in both our stores, Luang Prabang and Singapore. With young women weaver-entrepreneurs like Kong, and the support of there families and communities there is a future for their unique textile culture.
