At one time in Luang Prabang I lived on a pond, in a heritage-listed wooden house. Every morning, at 730am to be precise, it would begin. Tap, Tap, Tap (pause)___Tap, Tap, Tap____Tap,Tap, Tap____. Visitors once commented, “doesn’t that drive you crazy?”.

That sound was joy and comfort. Joy because it was years of cultural heritage still ongoing in my backyard and comfort because Lith Rattanavong, my neighbour, protector and friend, was well and at work for the day. 

Lit comes from a family of silversmiths and is a craftsman of exceptional talent. Ceremonial works are frequently commissioned from Aye Lit; ceremonial sword sheaths from Vientiane officials, body jewellery for the Miss Luang Prabang pageant, intricately embossed bowls for renowned families.

To make a bowl, the magic started with a circle of silver around 15cm in diameter. At that time the silver would come through a trader from Australia.  From this thick circle he would beat it out continuously until it was a thin bowl, this would take many hours, the metal strengthening with the working.

Patterns are then drawn on the silver. These patterns are reworked time and time again. There are books that refer to patterns of Luang Prabang. A resin/wax mould is used to reinforce the shape whilst the outlines are made using metal hammers and punches, known as the the repoussé technique. Repoussé or repoussage is a metalworking technique in which a malleable metal is shaped by hammering from the reverse side to create a design in low relief. Chasing or embossing is a similar technique in which the piece is hammered on the front side, sinking the metal. The two techniques are often used in conjunction (wikipedia).

Originally these techniques arrived in Luang Prabang when it became the capital of Lan Xang. Regular people would not have had the wealth to use silver in those early days of the new kingdom. Silver vassals were used in the king’s court and this brought techniques from the neighbouring Lanna Kingdom (Chiang Mai area) and China in the north. Family workshops developed and still today there are several in Luang Prabang. Demand diminished during the war and establishment of Lao PDR, however as prosperity has risen, demand in Vientiane has increased and also neighbouring Thailand provides a market. 

Back to repoussé and embossing. To create the relief patterns moulds are used. These are a wax mixture so they can be softened. By placing the silver over the mould shapes can be detailed by fine chisels. Their tool selection is specialised and prized by the craftsmen.

So for many years I saw this technique, but it wasn’t until I had the experience of making a ring with Gon, that I really understood and could delight in it. Moulding the silver into petals was so much rewarding - seeing how you could shape and finesse it with the small tools and wax base to soften the beating. I had a new appreciation of the tap tap tap _____.

After repoussé and embossing there is an optional darkening process. It can take a month to make a vessel. 

Whereas you can make a ring in an afternoon. It really is a delight to work the metal this way. You can book a workshop or even just visit a silversmith workshop in Luang Prabang and view their craftmanship in action.