I love handwoven Lao cotton, and I love it even better when paired with batik. It’s the comfortable combination of the two, especially in a warm climate. One is relaxed and cushioning in its mould around the body, the other crisp and light. So we’ve told you a lot about our Lao weavers’ talents with natural dyes and the looms, here is a story of batik and some photos of our trip to Java for this seasons collection.

Batik is categorized into two main styles: batik tulis and batik cap. 

Batik tulis is a hand-drawn technique, artisans use a canting tool to apply hot wax to fabric, allowing for intricate, detailed designs. You can imagine the time it takes to create one piece and they often feature very complex motifs. These incredible unique designs are often relatively inexpensive considering the effort, and they create a desire to frame them and hang for prosperity. The one thing I love is how the Indonesians really appreciate the craftsmanship for tulis, hopefully this will last. The process of this one amazing creation is outlined below (courtesy of Batik Museum, Pekalongan).

I did make this wrap shirt out of a beautiful natural dyes batik tulis from Cirebon area bought on a trip taken in 2019.

In contrast, batik cap involves a stamping technique using copper blocks (cap) to apply wax to the fabric. This process allows for the production of larger quantities with consistent patterns. While batik cap generally lacks the unique intricacies found in batik tulis, the variety of designs, unique combinations of colours and cost make it a great fabric to work with, and it is the pairing of designs I really love. 

The coastal cities of Pekalongan and Cirebon in Java do not have a lot of tourist attraction but that is part of the charm, they are easily accessed by the very comfortable rail system and provide an insight into Indonesia’s history especially through batik. 

Before hitting the batik shops, best to visit The Pekalongan Batik Museum. Established in 2006, it was founded to preserve and promote the art of batik, which has deep historical roots in Pekalongan. There was a need to document and educate the public about batik’s significance, especially as modern challenges threatened traditional practices. We were fortunate to have a young student guide us through, his passion was to promote traditional batik in modern Indonesian fashion through a youth workshop he ran. The museum raises awareness about the artistry and cultural importance of batik, and also supports local artisans and promotes sustainable practices in the industry.

Pekalongan's history can be traced back to the late 15th century when a it emerged as a vital trading port along the Java Sea. Originally, batik in Pekalongan was influenced by the styles of the Javanese court but, by the 18th century, Pekalongan became known for its textile trade, with Chinese traders introducing new dyeing techniques and textile patterns and Pekalongan developed its unique techniques and patterns, characterized by bright colors and intricate designs that often depict nature, local folklore, and social themes, incorporating motifs from Chinese, Indian, and Arab cultures. The rise of Pekalongan as a batik hub accelerated during the Dutch colonial era, when the demand for textiles increased significantly with Europeans love of chintzes developed in India. Local artisans began to innovate, blending traditional methods with new ideas, which led to the establishment of the Pekalongan batik style. (intricate floral batik tulis, Batik Museum Pekalongan)

Only 2 hours from Pekalongan is the city of Cirebon also known for batiks. There is one main street in Cirebon where all the shops are and you can browse easily.
Travelling by rail is a joy in Java, and when you are not batik shopping, you can always eat and enjoy a massage. Now we are ready for travels with Ma Te Sai batik shirts and Lao cotton shorts, sewn in the village!